(Updated January, 2020 since this is my all-time most read blog post)
It feels both awfully foreign and excitingly exhilarating to be finally tapping the keyboard of my laptop and not be writing a paper, or a proposal, or even an email! To whoever is still perusing this blog every now and then, thank you for not giving up on me— it has been an experimental year for me in so many ways that I have lost count. As of Thursday, July 4, 2019, my first year of doctoral studies at Teachers College finally drew to an end. I can’t quite express in words how I felt about this first year; there are too many emotions involved. While I felt uncertainty during part of the journey, one thing is clear: I have grown a lot from the challenges, and I believe that is what I wanted.
2019 has been a monumental year in a myriad of ways and we are only half-way through. In my head, I have made a list of blog posts to write, but have not had the courage to execute them. I suppose I have had a serious case of writer’s block and imposter syndrome, often doubting my ability to write, perhaps from writing too much in an academic setting and then overthinking it all. I have to keep reminding myself not too take this blog too seriously, or else it ceases to be fun. And to have some fun with writing and sharing was one of the main reasons I even started this project.
Before I get side-tracked in my random thoughts, let me attempt to return to my original aim: to begin sharing my favorite places to daydream, read, doodle, and get work done in New York City. I acknowledge that there are likely hundreds of similar blog posts out there with recommendations of places to go in the city for these purposes. What I am offering is the perspective of a 29-year old teacher-turned-student who has lived in the city now for a little over a year, who is a self-identified introvert, an enthusiastic user of public transport, and an avid people-watcher (i.e., ethnographer-in-training).
I have a feeling that I have forgotten one or two favorite places, in which case, I will save them for a future post. Here are 12 of my favorite places, organized by neighborhood, beginning with the one in which I reside.
#1 Stella and Fly, Upper East Side
I have lost count of the number of times I have frequented this local coffee shop (and wine bar at night!) that is only mins away from where I live. All I know is that I am on reward punch card number 5 or 6 (I think now discontinued? Although, if you’re a regular, you can occasionally get a free drink if you just mention it), so it is fair to say that this is a local favorite. Although I cannot be further away from being Irish, this Irish coffee shop and I go way back—Max and I moved into the neighborhood some one month after Stella and Fly opened in 2018, so I’d like to think that we are connected somehow.
This is not the first time I have spotlighted Stella and Fly in my blog. I believe it was the first coffee shop that really made me feel at home here in the city. Perhaps the industrial chic interior design reminded me of our previous loft apartment in New Haven (oh, what a dream apartment that was and how much more affordable it was!); perhaps the tall window and the comfortable chairs lining the window resonated with the inner-cat-sitting-by-the-window in me; perhaps the warm smiles and Irish accent of Kate and Nigel (the coffee shop owners) and the Spanish (spoken by many of the baristas) made me feel welcomed and less alone in this at-times-overwhelming city.
Stella and Fly has been with me through the highs and lows of first and second years of grad school. I have done plenty of brainstorming here, and have edited countless numbers of papers on its wooden tables, drinking my usual latte (to stay) in one of the distinctive blue-colored handcrafted cups (from the pottery store next door). I try to come here in the early morning, but not too early (I believe the coffee shop opens around 6am!) so that I can snatch one of the window seats (FYI there are now 4 chairs by the windows instead of the previous 3 lounge chairs and plenty of pillows to go around!). The latest I have stayed is until 6pm, when lights are dimmed and laptops are swapped out for candles to transition into a wine bar. I have yet to stay for wine, but have not gathered up the courage to mingle in this very social space (it is ALWAYS packed!). I will make that my goal for year two :)
For the practically-minded person, Stella and Fly will not disappoint. There is a restroom downstairs, to the left of the staircase. It is always clean and well-stocked with Mrs. Meyer’s soap and hand lotion. The downstairs area has plenty of seating but no windows, so if that’s your study atmosphere, go for it. There is wifi that has never failed me, and unless it has recently changed, the password is “coffeeandwine.” There are various seating options; even during the busiest hours of the day, I have consistently been able to get a seat at the “bar” and then switch to a different seat as people leave. With the increased popularity of Stella & Fly (I’d like to think that this blog post has something to do with it haha), it has been more challenging to secure my favorite table by the window; nonetheless, this is always my go-to work place. There are hangers behind the entrance, as well as hooks underneath tables for you to hang your bag/umbrella/jacket. Importantly, there are outlets to charge your gadgets (some are hidden, so look under your table) and complimentary lemon-chilled water. In other words, this is a coffee shop where you can stay for hours and your presence would be appreciated.
By now, I can probably name all of the people who have ever worked at Stella and Fly since the summer of 2018; but as the shy person I am, I have not engaged in conversation with any of them beyond the “hello,” “thank you,” and “may I have a latte to stay please?” (although one day in the fall of 2018, Nigel recognized me and individually greeted me and thanked me for spreading the word about this place—that made me SO happy). I think Nigel knows who I am now (in 2020), given that I’ve been a regular presence for some 1.5 years.
My taste has also shifted a bit; my usual drinks are either the “latte with macadamia nut milk” or “hot chocolate with oat milk.” Another change (since 2018) is that Stella & Fly has a food menu and a pretty extensive cocktail menu. Food is served beginning at 11am, although you can still get sweet and savory croissants (along with other sweet treats) in the mornings.
#2 Hutch & Waldo, Upper East Side
Hutch & Waldo is an Upper East Side coffee shop that I would like to call my other regular spot; however, it is located some 15-minutes away by foot so when I am tight for time (which has been the case during my first year of grad school), I end up visiting a coffee shop in the high E 80s rather than the low E 80s. But when I am in the area, I always peek inside, crossing my fingers for a rare free seat. As my photographs show, this is a small coffee shop with limited seating. When the weather is nice, however, there are tables and chairs set up outside.
What keeps me coming back is the charm of this coffee shop. I love the concept of a car garage converted into a coffee shop. I appreciate the latte/cappuccino art and the beautiful to-go cups. And I am slightly obsessed with the pop of turquoise against the exposed brick walls. Unlike Stella and Fly, Hutch & Waldo offers meals (salads and small dishes) so can be a place for brunch or lunch. Again, if you manage to find a seat!
The people working here are super friendly, which is an absolute plus for me. And last time I checked, there is no wifi, so this is a place where I like to do offline work, including reading articles that I have downloaded into my iPad and taking notes from a book.
#3 Cafe Sabarsky (inside Neue Galerie), Upper East Side
Cafe Sabarsky is a coffee shop located on the first floor of the Neue Galerie museum for German and Austrian art located along the Museum Mile on 5th avenue. To me, it brings back precious memories of my time in Vienna, which is where I studied abroad for half a year during my junior year. I am old-fashioned at heart so this coffee shop/cafe is right up my alley, serving a wide range of espresso drinks, a mouthwatering assortment of delicate cakes, and delicious hearty meals for those who are willing to splurge a bit. The waiters are dressed in black-and-white, the plates and napkins are adorned with “Cafe Sabarsky” in the same font, and occasionally, there is live piano music.
As you are reading this, you might wonder to yourself, how is this a place to do work? It sounds more like a place to eat and socialize. I consider Cafe Sabarsky a place to do creative work. I have done plenty of brainstorming in this space, as I often find inspiration from observing social interactions, attuning to details across the room, and listening to the hums and chatter filling up the space. The last time I was here, I saw an older woman seated at a corner table, reading a book. She was there for at least a good hour, had finished her drink, and showed no signs of leaving, which apparently was acceptable! I imagine she is a regular. How awesome it is to have Cafe Sabarsky as your regular spot!
I don’t believe I will become a regular here any time soon given my student budget, but if you have some money to spare, or are willing to indulge every now and then, this is a fantastic place to take family and friends or to treat yourself! Sometimes there is a line, but I have not needed to wait for long for a seat. I usually get the Wiener melange (very similar to a cappuccino), which is a staple in all Viennese coffee houses. The Sabarsky Heisse Schokolade (hot chocolate) is homemade and very rich! For dessert, a popular one is the Sachertorte (an exquisite chocolate cake, the most famous of which is served at Hotel Sacher in Vienna); however, I vouch for the Warmer Milchrahmstrudel (a cheese-filled strudel served warm with vanilla sauce; see above photo) and the Apfelstrudel (a classic!).
You can see the rest of the menu here.
#4 Conservatory Water, or “Alice in Wonderland,” Central Park
Conservatory Water in Central Park has been a regular reading spot for me and Max this summer. For the longest time, we called it “Alice in Wonderland” because of the name of a statue nearby. If you love being outdoors, this is a place you might like. It gets pretty busy here during the summer, but it is never really loud, and Max and I have always managed to find a bench in the shade. There is something very calming about working next to a body of water, and I absolutely love watching the mini sailboats sail by. More often than not, the “bubble man” is present and you get to experience sunlight diffracting through the thin films of bubbles. Every time I am here, I am reminded of happy childhood memories.
What makes this spot a practical study spot is that there is a Le Pain Quotidien located at one end of the “pond,” so you can buy yourself a drink, a meal, or use the restroom. Wifi is available through Le Pain Quotidien, so if you are seated close to the cafe, you might be able to connect to the complimentary wifi.
#5 Earth Cafe, Upper West Side
Moving to the other side of Central Park, we reach the Upper West Side, which is where Teachers College is located. When I find myself with an hour to spare before work or the start of class, I will often frequent Earth Cafe, which has become a favorite that rivals Stella and Fly on the Upper East Side. Earth Cafe is Max’s favorite coffee shop that I have taken him to, and Max is one strict critic—he is all about getting serious work done, which means any place I take him to must have sufficient seating, stable wifi, a restroom, good espresso drinks, lots of light (natural light preferred), and treats. This place has it all and then some.
There is much to love about this local cafe, beginning with its convenient location. I can hope on the 1, 2, or 3 train and get off at 96th station, walk a few steps over to W 97th and I am there! When the weather is nice, there is outdoor seating, and the cafe’s corner location makes it an ideal location for people watching. I don’t know what I love more—the indoor seating or the outdoor seating. Quite frankly, given the abundance of light that fills this airy space, it is hard to separate indoor and outdoor. There are two full walls lined with gridded windows; the other walls are decorated with art that is intriguing to look at. I appreciate the brick walls painted white because it really opens up the space. i also love the pop of red of the espresso machine. The lattes are smooth and the food is tasty.
Earth Cafe is where I camp out for hours when I am on the Upper West Side. I am never in a rush to leave and I absolutely love the salads (they are so refreshing). I do plenty of writing by hand here. This summer, I have done the majority of my statistics work here. Even with statistics being over, I plan to come back often. It is nearly impossible to be in a bad mood here; there is something about bright cheerful colors that really do brighten your day.
#6 Fika Tower and Bakery, Hell’s Kitchen
This summer was my first time exploring the Hell’s Kitchen area, and from my short time there, I know I will be back to explore some more. I came here for one reason: to visit the Swedish coffee shop Fika, which has numerous locations scattered across the island. I did my homework prior to visiting and decided on this particular location because I read the words “outside patio” and I was immediately hooked. The trek to this spot, however, did require some legwork. I got off at the Columbus Circle subway stop and walked west toward 10th avenue. If convenience is important to you, unless you live in the neighborhood, this Fika might not be an optimal study location. Since I’m an avid walker, I did not mind one bit.
The outdoor patio on the second floor did not disappoint. There are enough tables and seats to go around. The last time I was here, I settled on the long wooden table, which I shared with a few other people who seemed to be New York City locals. There is wifi, even outside, two restrooms, and all kinds of drinks (not just coffee) and snacks. There are two floors to this coffee shop, which is designed in a loft style with very tall ceilings. The space is airy, light, minimalistic, and in an endearing way, reminds me of IKEA (I adore IKEA by the way, as I grew up in Sweden). If you are someone who likes clean lines, symmetry, and minimalism, I believe you will enjoy working here.
#7 The Map Room, New York Public Library, Midtown
When given the choice between doing work in a coffee shop or in a library, I will almost always choose the former. I do, however, make an exception for two libraries in Manhattan— the main branch (the Schwartzman building) of the New York Public Library and the Jefferson Market Library (also a branch of NYPL). The main branch of the NYPL is centrally located in Bryant Park and the building is absolutely grand. The main reading room—the Rose Room—gets most of the attention, but my personal favorite room is the Map Room—a smaller, more intimate, but nonetheless exquisite space. I did not take many photos of the room when I was last there, but from the photo shown above, you can see the beautiful tall arched windows that let in a steady stream of light. There are two long rows of wooden tables, one of which has desktop computers you can use if you are a holder of a NYPL card. Otherwise, you can seat yourself at the other table and stay for as long as you want. While the seats are comfortable and there is wifi, what prevents me from staying too long is the prohibition of drinks and snacks. Nonetheless, if you are someone who needs peace and quiet to get work done, then this library (and especially this room) would be ideal. Compared with the Rose Room, there is less foot traffic, so fewer interruptions.
#8 Cafe Intelligentsia (inside The High Line Hotel), Chelsea
Cafe Intelligentsia was a top find from last summer, when I did a lot of wandering of the city as a way to get myself settled into my new home. The High Line and the Chelsea Market are top tourist attractions in the area, but I am a bigger fan of the art scene (the many independent, private galleries!), the building architecture, and the coffee houses.
Hotel lobbies are often a secret source of great lounges and coffee shops. It took some courage for me to confidently walk into a hotel lobby; for the longest time, I thought you had to be a customer/resident to enter the space (wrong!). As an aside, did you know that if you are in need of a restroom, you can try the restrooms in hotel lobbies? They are considered public! You cannot be denied access! There is a LOVELY bathroom in the Hotel Waldorf-Astoria (I believe on the second floor; you have to walk up the stairs. I also believe there is a public Starbucks still, so grab a coffee and head for one of the comfortable lounge chairs and enjoy!).
The High Line Hotel is a bit like a secret garden. You don’t quite know what is inside unless you walk in. Once you walk past the outdoor cafe, you will enter the lobby of the hotel, which is adorned with a Persian rug, exposed brick walls, golden frames but no paintings, and antique typewriters. The seating is limited in this indoor space. Personally, it is too dark for my taste and prefer taking my drink outside, to the hidden garden in the back. There is plenty of seating here, but there is not always shade, so you have to pick your battle. The plant life here is robust .
Because Chelsea is quite a distance from where I live, I am not a regular at Cafe Intelligentsia, but I imagine it would be if I lived in the area. It is a true hidden gem in the neighborhood and I would highly recommend it to those who enjoy studying in the open air. It does get too hot here in the summers, so I would suggest coming here in the fall and spring (unless you have seasonal allergies like I have).
If you are on a lookout for other coffee shops in hotel lobbies, here are a few more to try out:
Hotel Stanford in midtown has partnered up with Think Coffee and offers comfortable leather lounge chairs in a modern chic environment.
1 Hotel Brooklyn Bridge (where Max and I stayed for our wedding) is home to Neighbors Cafe (where you can grab coffee and breakfast treats to go, or sit on one of their bar stools or small tables), The Osprey (REALLY good brunch with both indoor and outdoor seating—both are charming! I LOVE the decoration), and an unforgettable hotel lobby with all kinds of greeneries and seating arrangement (and wifi and outlets!).
There is another 1 Hotel in the city, located close to the southern edge of Central Park. There is a restaurant/cafe as well, but I haven’t been inside so cannot speak personally of the place.
#9 La Lanterna di Vittorio, Greenwich Village
The photograph above shows Macdougal Street, one of my favorites in Greenwich Village (or is it West Village?) because of the diversity of establishments. I had walked past La Lanterna di Vittorio numerous times without going inside, thinking it was only a restaurant and assuming it would be very pricey. One day in the early spring, I decided to walk inside. The “winter garden” sign piqued my interest.
Once I entered the winter garden tucked away in the back of the restaurant, down a short flight a stairs, all I could think was “WOW!” My photograph does not quite capture the ambiance of this space; there is a certain warmth that you can only experience once you are physically in the space. Last time I was here, I stayed for hours, reading articles on my iPad, brainstorming ideas for a new paper, and people watching. It does not get very busy here during the weekday and is a great place to work next to an espresso drink and dessert.
There is wifi for those who need it, although I personally wouldn’t bring a giant laptop here, as it sort of ruins the atmosphere (an iPad or smaller device is fine!). The tiramisu is oh-so-good, and the dessert menu is extensive, as is the drink menu… Espresso drinks are always served with a glass of water, which reminds me of my time in Vienna! This is a place to do serious writing, particularly in the winter time, when light is limited and the cold can be unbearable.
#10 Jefferson Market Library, Greenwich Village
The Jefferson Market Library in Greenwich Village was a regular spot for me and my study group during first year of graduate school. We convened here almost every Saturday morning in the fall semester for some 2-3 hours. I forget how I came across this library; I imagine it was during a random stroll through the neighborhood when my curiosity got the better of me and I stuck my head inside this red brick tower.
This library is another wonderful space to utilize if you are someone who prefers working in peace and quiet. There is an outdoor garden, but seating is limited. There are three floors to this library. The first floor has a reading room that is reserved for children; I did not realize this the first time I was there, and was respectfully asked to leave. The basement floor is filled with periodicals, magazines, and desktop computers. There is also a rotating art installation (mostly photography). My favorite space, however, has to be the second floor, where the main reading room is.
I love the walk up to the second floor. When you do, you will be greeted by subtle light shining through the stained glass windows. Be sure to look up, so you can enjoy the beautiful ceiling decoration (see photograph above).
The main reading room has plenty of seating options—individual lounge chairs with small tables to rest your reading materials, and long wooden tables to share with other fellow library goers. Along the center of the tables are outlets for you to charge your devices. This room is meant to be a silent reading/writing room. When my study group would meet, we would claim one of the tables in the side room on the second floor. Here, we conversed quietly and most of the time, people would not mind, but one weekend, there was a grumpy old man who kept shushing us (me specifically! and I don’t even consider myself to be loud!).
While the Jefferson Market Library is nearly perfect for working, it has one major flaw: there is no public restroom. My study group and I would sometimes run across the street to Lenwich to use the restroom. Other times, we would move to Mah-Zeh-Dahr, a modern bakery/coffee house that has a large working table in the back, complete with wifi, outlets, restroom, and treat galore. It can get a bit busy here (and there is background music).
*Please note that as of July 7, 2019, the Jefferson Market Library is undergoing renovation and is currently closed :(
#11 Partners Coffee, West Village (formerly Toby’s Estate Coffee)
Partners Coffee (formerly Toby’s Estate Coffee) at the intersection of Charles Street and 7th Avenue South is one of the most intriguing places for people watching (and studying of course!). Perhaps it has something to do with its location, being situated at a 45 degree angle intersection that is reminiscent of the Flatiron building, thereby allowing for ample views of passersby. The place is small and cozy with bar stool-like chairs lining both walls, a few small tables in the center of the room, and a coveted plush sofa that is almost always occupied (one day, I will claim you…). I appreciate the pops of red and blue against an otherwise blank canvas of white-paint exposed brick walls. There are wooden and metallic elements throughout the room, contributing to an industrial chic vibe.
The photograph above is old (you can see the former name printed on the paper cup), but the vibe remains the same for this space. There is always subtle decoration that rotates with the season, mirroring the passing of time. The espresso drinks and the chai latte are delicious. Max is an avid cappuccino drinker and he would say the espresso is on the strong side.
This is a place to stay for hours. There is just about everything that you need to feel comfortable: wifi, a few outlets, a bathroom downstairs (though the wait can be long…), plenty of natural light, background music, and really good drinks and snacks. I have yet to order food here, but I hear it does not disappoint!
Charles Street, which is where this coffee shop is located, is another favorite street in the neighborhood. There is another lovely coffee shop down the street (going west) that is filled with local villagers; it is called The Elk. The sign is barely noticeable, and the coffee shop is tucked away in the quieter end of the street so it is easy to miss. As much as I love The Elk, it is so difficult to find a seat; for this reason, I am not making it an official part of this post. If you do manage to grab a seat, stay and try their grain bowl :) And casually listen in on conversations— they are really fascinating; you will soon notice that this place tends to draw an artist/creative crowd.
#12 Jack’s Stir Brew Coffee, West Village
As our tour nears the end, I would like to introduce you to Jack’s Stir Brew Coffee in West Village, specifically on W 10th Street, which is another quintessential West Village/Greenwich Village street that has so much charm. Max and I are huge fans of brownstones (a love that originates from my time in the greater Boston area) and every time we frequent this neighborhood, we daydream about life in one of them. Jack’s Stir Brew Coffee is part of a chain of coffee shops scattered throughout the city. There is a tiny outpost in my Upper East Side neighborhood, but it is nowhere near as charming as this one.
This particular Jack’s Stir Brew Coffee has perhaps the best window seat (see photograph above), and it is worth it to come here just for an attempt to secure it for an hour or so. Don’t be fooled by the photo, however; the space is small. If I remember correctly there are only 4 small tables, along with a narrow bar-like table along one side of the wall (you would be sitting on bar stools). Most people come here get coffee to go, but I almost always get coffee to stay. The people working here are super kind and immediately make you feel at home.
If you need a study break, there are plenty of interesting photographs to look at for a welcome distraction. Framed photos and artwork cover the walls on all sides. They are great conversation starters with the barista, if that is something you fancy. As for me, I prefer listening to the conversations and observing the various interactions taking place in this intimate space :)
Beginning in 2020, I started going to Jack’s Stir Brew Coffee on the Upper East Side. It is not as charming as the one in West Village, but I’m a huge fan of their Sweet Mary tea drink and the people who work there are SO nice. Plus, there is happy hour Monday through Friday beginning at 4pm (50% off coffee and teas!)
And… that is all for now! I hope this has been an interesting read! I hope to create a part two of my favorite places for my second year living in the city.
As always, thank you for reading and following along both my physical and intellectual journey!
Catherine